Gongfu Tea Pitcher (Gong Dao Bei): Cultural Journey and Practical Use, Material, Shape, Brewing Impact

The Cultural Background of the Tea Pitcher (Gong Dao Bei)

Pitcher in traditional Gongfu Tea is also known as Gong Dao Bei （公道杯）, Chahai (茶海） and fairness cup. It’s one of the basic tea wares for Gongfu brewing nowadays. However, do you know that throughout the evolution of Chinese tea history, the cha hai (fairness pitcher) never played a significant role? The cha hai originally evolved from vessels used for serving alcohol and was not incorporated into tea preparation until the Ming Dynasty, when it was discovered as a tool for evenly distributing brewed tea. However, it wasn’t until the 1980s that the cha hai became a central element of tea practice, thanks to Taiwan’s tea culture revival. During this period, tea enthusiasts sought to elevate the everyday act of drinking tea—something as common as drinking water—into a refined art form. This led to the creation of the dry-style tea ceremony, which prominently features the cha hai and utilizes aroma cups, introducing a new way to appreciate the nuances of tea.

Taiwan's tea culture originated from immigrants from southern China, specifically Fujian and Guangdong. When they arrived in Taiwan to build new lives, they brought along the tea-drinking traditions from their hometowns. The early method of tea drinking involved a teapot pouring tea directly into three or four small cups, which is known as a "wet" tea setting. This method included techniques like pouring on the teapot and using a tea boat to catch the overflow. The advantage of this style is that the tea goes directly into the cups, allowing the temperature to remain higher, which is particularly suited for high-temperature teas like Wuyi rock tea from Fujian and Phoenix Dan Cong from Chaozhou that require heat to release their fragrant aromas.

As Taiwanese people began using a tea pitcher, this method of tea drinking made its way back to the mainland, and now tea pitchers have become a standard accessory in Western tea culture as well. Tea culture continues to evolve with the changing times and people. After the pitcher became popular in Taiwan, this tea-drinking method was introduced back to mainland China, and today, pitchers have even become a standard in Western tea culture. Tea culture is always evolving with people’s movements and innovations.

Best Teas for the Gong Dao Bei: When to Use a Tea Pitcher and When to Skip It

The pitcher, or Gong Dao Bei in Chinese, has a meaningful role in the tea ceremony. The term “gong dao” means “fair and equal distribution,” which reflects respect and equality among people. The idea is to ensure that everyone at the tea table gets the same taste of tea.

However, in my personal experience, not all types of tea are suited to be served with a pitcher. So, which teas are suitable? Lightly fermented teas like white and green teas, as well as mellow teas like black tea and ripe Pu-erh, benefit from the pitcher. This tool helps combine the different flavors that emerge from different timing of brewing, creating a fuller, more rounded taste, allowing you to appreciate the tea’s overall character.

On the other hand, some teas, such as oolongs with a fermentation level between 15% and 65%, may not be best served using a pitcher. Oolongs have complex aromas and production techniques; for instance, traditional charcoal-roasted teas develop layers of flavor during the roasting process. If you use a pitcher, it may feel like blending these distinct layers into a smoothie, which can diminish the tea’s delicate aroma and flavor. For these teas, I recommend the traditional method of pouring directly from the teapot into individual cups, allowing you to appreciate the intricate changes and nuances of the tea.

These tea-drinking practices are flexible. The key is understanding that using a pitcher gives you a sense of the tea's full flavor profile, while pouring directly into cups allows you to zoom in on the finer details and unique characteristics of the tea. When drinking alone or with a small group, you can choose different approaches to experience the tea from various angles. For tea sessions with more than six people, the pitcher becomes quite practical. If you stick to using individual cups with a larger group, the tea can cool down while passing cups around. The pitcher helps maintain the tea’s temperature and makes it easier for everyone to serve themselves.

Choosing the Right Shape for Your Tea Pitcher

Because of the blending effect I mentioned, I suggest choosing a pitcher with a low profile, which helps produce a cleaner taste. Taller pitchers, on the other hand, tend to blend the flavors too much, resulting in a muddled taste. The same principle applies to teacups, which is why traditional Gongfu tea cups are shallow — there’s wisdom in centuries of experimentation by tea drinkers.

Which Tea Pitcher Material is Best? A Comparison of Ceramics, Porcelain and Glass

The shape of tea wares influences how tea feels in the mouth, while the material changes the character of the tea. Just as a person’s appearance changes depending on whether they wear jeans or a formal gown, the material of a pitcher affects the tea’s presentation. Choosing the right material is essential because no matter how beautiful a tea vessel is, if it dulls the flavor, you’ll find yourself less inclined to use it. Understanding the differences in materials is key to brewing better-tasting tea.

The most common materials for pitchers are wood-fired ceramics, white porcelain, and glass. Each has its unique characteristics. Objectively speaking, each material has its strengths. However, from my personal experience, they also differ in how they present the tea, with a clear ranking that matches the order in which I listed them. Below is a comparison of these three materials based on my subjective experience, offering insights into how to brew better tea. If you have different experiences, I’d love to hear them and exchange ideas.

Wood-fired Ceramics

Wood-fired ceramics undergo a process where real fire and far-infrared rays penetrate the clay, while the burning wood produces charcoal, which solidifies as carbon on the surface of the tea vessel. The far-infrared rays and carbon can soften and purify water, increasing the sweetness and depth of the tea. Whether it’s the tea (such as charcoal-roasted teas) or the tea wares, the more organically they are produced, the closer they are to nature. This gives wood-fired ceramics an additional hidden layer of warmth and comfort from the earth, a feeling that cannot be replicated by machine-made products like gas or electric-fired ceramics.

The clay used in wood-fired ceramics can be roughly divided into light-colored porcelain clay and darker earthen clay, which can be glazed or unglazed. The finer the pores of porcelain clay, the less it absorbs the tea’s high-frequency aromas, making it ideal for teas with delicate fragrances. If the surface is crystallized, it enhances the aroma even more.

For earthen clay, the coarseness of the pores varies. The darker the clay, the higher the iron content, which softens the tea, making it smoother and richer. Coarser clay has better breathability, which is suitable for teas like ripe Pu-erh and aged teas, as it absorbs warehouse or off flavors. However, using this type of clay with delicate teas like green tea or aromatic oolong is not ideal, as it can absorb the tea’s best qualities. Finer clay pores, which don’t absorb too much aroma, are suitable for most teas, particularly those that benefit from a smooth texture, such as black tea. I personally avoid using glazed wood-fired tea ware. While the glaze prevents aroma absorption, I’ve found that it also tightens and disrupts the tea's flavor, overshadowing the natural balance and harmony imparted by wood firing.

White Porcelain

White porcelain excels at highlighting the delicate and refined qualities of tea. The glaze surface is vitrified and free of pores, providing a neutral medium for presenting the tea’s character. It’s ideal for evaluating new teas. However, the quality of white porcelain varies significantly depending on the clay, glaze, firing temperature, and number of firings. I recommend investing in mid-to-high-priced porcelain to ensure that it brings out the nuances of the tea rather than dulling them. Additionally, low-quality porcelain may contain harmful levels of heavy metals, so choose wisely. Although both white porcelain and glass provide a neutral presentation of tea, white porcelain feels warmer and more natural.

Glass

Glass, too, presents tea neutrally, though I find it has a cold quality that lacks the warmth of white porcelain. It also loses heat faster than porcelain, though its transparency is advantageous for viewing the tea’s color. Be cautious of cheap glassware, as it may contain harmful chemicals. I recommend choosing borosilicate glass, which is heat-resistant and has a high level of transparency. You can tell borosilicate glass by its heavier sound when tapped, and it tends to be slightly more expensive.

Keep in mind - (tea) culture is always evolving. Experiment with different techniques and discover how small changes can transform your tea experience.